Ben Marcus Former SURFER Editor/Author
One year, 80,000 words, 7,384 emails, 3,000 miles and 600+ surfboards later, 365 Surfboards is off the boat from Hong Kong and on the truck to Minneapolis for a short turnaround in the warehouse before it explodes onto bookshelves in a blaze of color and history – just in time for Christmas (hopefully).
The book is simple in concept: 365 surfboards laid out chronologically, with 200 to 300 word captions detailing the provenance of the board, but also linking all the boards together to narrate the arc of the surfboard from olo and alaia to Thrusters and carbon fiber.
Consider Hurricane Sandy in West Coast terms, and it’s unthinkable: a super-sized Pacific hurricane wreaking havoc as it approached the California border. Here’s an opportunity to help.
Cunningham is a Hawaiian kid who “done good”, combining his water skills with dedication to public service and set a high standard for both, either in the tower or in the barrel at Pipeline.
Some religions are monotheistic and have only God, while others worship multiple Gods. Surfing, you could argue, is polytheistic as we have a variety of Gods we pray to. For example…
The feelings of euphoria, ecstasy and one-ness with nature are addictive, and these are feelings that other people – who may or may not surf – get through the practice of religion.
“Surfing is my religion.” It may be true. It may be ridiculous. But first you have to ask yourself a question: What is religion?
One surfer leaves the Malibu City Council (Zuma Jay), and another surfer enters. On May 10th, Malibu resident Skylar Peak will become the youngest politician (and surfer) to win one of five seats on the Malibu City Council.
“All Garrett [McNamara] can be accused of is bringing surfing into the homes of hundreds of millions of people,” said publicist Nicole Macias.
- [VIDEO] The Last Dance: The Pipe Masters
- Sorting Your Tight Hamstrings
- One Night at Turtle Bay: The 2013 Surfer Poll
- My Evening at the Surfer Poll Awards
- My Pick: Kelly Slater at 2013 Billabong Pipe Masters
- Terrifying Shark Attack Caught on GoPro
- 6 Keys to Surviving the North Shore
- John John Florence Will Win Pipe Masters
- Event Preview: 2013 Billabong Pipe Masters
- A World Title Proposal: Best of Three: Mick vs. Kelly
- herbertcarmuse on A World Title Proposal: Best of Three: Mick vs. Kelly
- SURF TRAMP on 6 Keys to Surviving the North Shore
- omah on 6 Keys to Surviving the North Shore
- Will on 6 Keys to Surviving the North Shore
- Rover on John John Florence Will Win Pipe Masters