Ben Marcus Former SURFER Editor/Author
One year, 80,000 words, 7,384 emails, 3,000 miles and 600+ surfboards later, 365 Surfboards is off the boat from Hong Kong and on the truck to Minneapolis for a short turnaround in the warehouse before it explodes onto bookshelves in a blaze of color and history – just in time for Christmas (hopefully).
The book is simple in concept: 365 surfboards laid out chronologically, with 200 to 300 word captions detailing the provenance of the board, but also linking all the boards together to narrate the arc of the surfboard from olo and alaia to Thrusters and carbon fiber.
Consider Hurricane Sandy in West Coast terms, and it’s unthinkable: a super-sized Pacific hurricane wreaking havoc as it approached the California border. Here’s an opportunity to help.
Cunningham is a Hawaiian kid who “done good”, combining his water skills with dedication to public service and set a high standard for both, either in the tower or in the barrel at Pipeline.
Some religions are monotheistic and have only God, while others worship multiple Gods. Surfing, you could argue, is polytheistic as we have a variety of Gods we pray to. For example…
The feelings of euphoria, ecstasy and one-ness with nature are addictive, and these are feelings that other people – who may or may not surf – get through the practice of religion.
“Surfing is my religion.” It may be true. It may be ridiculous. But first you have to ask yourself a question: What is religion?
One surfer leaves the Malibu City Council (Zuma Jay), and another surfer enters. On May 10th, Malibu resident Skylar Peak will become the youngest politician (and surfer) to win one of five seats on the Malibu City Council.
“All Garrett [McNamara] can be accused of is bringing surfing into the homes of hundreds of millions of people,” said publicist Nicole Macias.
- Field Trip to Mexico
- Below Fu#*ing Zero
- Oxycontin: Don’t Lose Yourself Along with The Pain
- Opening The Doors of Perception
- Who is JOB 4.0: Soft Tops at Jaws
- Wipeout From Hell: Pedra Branca
- Resurrected: Never Before Seen A+ Footage
- Portfolio: Jon Roberts
- 7 Yoga Poses to Strengthen Your Surfing
- Best Day of the Year in San Diego