Jaimal Yogis Surfer/Journalist/Author
Becoming a new dad of two, I’ve realized something: simplicity is good. After writing two books for big people. I’ve decided most of what I know can be distilled into pretty short sentences, ideally ones that rhyme.
Mark Foo died on a day just like this, his body floating in a lagoon after catching an edge on an 18 footer. Mark Foo, who never came back—never. But I’ve trained for this. The statistics are on my side, I tell myself.
In The Fear Project, I wanted to know the science behind what made these people tick, but I couldn’t help getting enthralled in their personal stories.
Despite having to beg for survival, despite being constantly teased by men and women who say surfing is inappropriate for girls, Nassima had just beat all the boys in a surf contest.
All my reasoning faculties, plus the sea monsters, were telling me to paddle back with Ryan. But reason has never been my strong suit.
There’s an old Zen saying that you should practice Zen like your head is on fire. Instinctively, with full focus and commitment, and no hesitation. Rom surfed like it was the only thing that could quench the flames. I did my best to keep up.
Water is full of magic. Shapeless but incompressible, it is the only substance that can exist naturally as solid, liquid, and gas inside earth’s temperature range.
Though there were many challenges involved in bringing Saltwater Buddha, the film, to life, the biggest was fixing my head.
Fear won’t go away. Fear is there for a reason, a survival tool. But we can change how we react and view our most primal emotion. It can be a huge deal that becomes literally what we are. Or it can just be an occasional flicker on the ocean of mind.
The two Icelandic locals – an older Viking-like guy and a younger Viking-like guy – don’t seem to mind us ruining their private session, maybe because they want to buy our boards, which are very hard to come by here (no surf shops).
- Terrifying Shark Attack Caught on GoPro
- 6 Keys to Surviving the North Shore
- John John Florence Will Win Pipe Masters
- Event Preview: 2013 Billabong Pipe Masters
- A World Title Proposal: Best of Three: Mick vs. Kelly
- Selling the Lifestyle, Hurting the Planet: Rating Surf Apparel Brands
- Inside Hawaii’s Barrels
- A Look at Pipe Masters Since 2009
- Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell
- Portfolio: Andy Bowlin
- ichorousmedia . on A World Title Proposal: Best of Three: Mick vs. Kelly
- rozenswag on 6 Keys to Surviving the North Shore
- J Hatchett on 6 Keys to Surviving the North Shore
- Ben on A World Title Proposal: Best of Three: Mick vs. Kelly
- Tim Hamby on Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell