Jaimal Yogis Surfer/Journalist/Author
Becoming a new dad of two, I’ve realized something: simplicity is good. After writing two books for big people. I’ve decided most of what I know can be distilled into pretty short sentences, ideally ones that rhyme.
Mark Foo died on a day just like this, his body floating in a lagoon after catching an edge on an 18 footer. Mark Foo, who never came back—never. But I’ve trained for this. The statistics are on my side, I tell myself.
In The Fear Project, I wanted to know the science behind what made these people tick, but I couldn’t help getting enthralled in their personal stories.
Despite having to beg for survival, despite being constantly teased by men and women who say surfing is inappropriate for girls, Nassima had just beat all the boys in a surf contest.
All my reasoning faculties, plus the sea monsters, were telling me to paddle back with Ryan. But reason has never been my strong suit.
There’s an old Zen saying that you should practice Zen like your head is on fire. Instinctively, with full focus and commitment, and no hesitation. Rom surfed like it was the only thing that could quench the flames. I did my best to keep up.
Water is full of magic. Shapeless but incompressible, it is the only substance that can exist naturally as solid, liquid, and gas inside earth’s temperature range.
Though there were many challenges involved in bringing Saltwater Buddha, the film, to life, the biggest was fixing my head.
Fear won’t go away. Fear is there for a reason, a survival tool. But we can change how we react and view our most primal emotion. It can be a huge deal that becomes literally what we are. Or it can just be an occasional flicker on the ocean of mind.
The two Icelandic locals – an older Viking-like guy and a younger Viking-like guy – don’t seem to mind us ruining their private session, maybe because they want to buy our boards, which are very hard to come by here (no surf shops).
- Drone Captures Dolphin Stampede
- Bob and Sink: The Trial and Error of Ryan Burch
- The Seabass Sequence
- The Ol’ Boys Project: Documenting Stoke in Bali
- Field Trip to Mexico
- Below Fu#*ing Zero
- Oxycontin: Don’t Lose Yourself Along with The Pain
- Opening The Doors of Perception
- Who is JOB 4.0: Soft Tops at Jaws
- Wipeout From Hell: Pedra Branca