Author Archives: Maureen McNamara
It hurts to be old and washed up sometimes. Especially when I remember when I was pretty good and the days were long and warm and I ran with a pack and we were loud and obnoxious and we didn’t care about anything or anyone, except us.
Standing atop the dune the other day, while inserting my earplugs and zipping up my suit, I was accosted by a smugly grinning dork who glanced at my board and said: “You’re not actually going out in that water, are you?”
I understand, and I do truly believe that everyone has a right to enjoy what the ocean and surfing have to offer. And I know that that is different for each and every surfer.
Gerry Lopez said: “You can’t put fences around life. Things change. Nothing ever stays the same. All you gotta do is keep paddling. Simple!”
His medium was water and waves. He sensed the wave’s energy in a way I’ve never seen since in another surfer.
My brother and I would surf for hours. We were dopey gremmies; we surfed right through the changing tides, wondering where all the other surfers would go.
I know a dark place. Dark and deep, beneath the sea. A place I visited once, un-voluntarily held hostage actually. A place I don’t ever want to revisit; a place that changed my entire outlook on my role in this universe.
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