Phil LeRoy Surfer/Writer
The first solid South-SSW groundswell arrived as students crammed for finals with waves on their minds. Townies went from stoked to surfed out, back to stoked and back again.
Well, it’s official. John John Florence is the Pipeline kahuna. His third Volcom Pipeline Pro victory in a row solidified, this 20-year-old prodigy has spent more time inside the pipe than plumbers and more time sneaking out the backdoor than a teenager cheating their curfew.
The first day of the Volcom Pipe Pro saw solid 4-6 Hawaiian. The larger swell moved in and pushed sand into the channel, making it interesting for some of the best Pipe surfers in the world.
Lay days during the Triple Crown aren’t as anticlimactic as the phrase makes them out to be. I stashed my board, grabbed my camera, cracked a beer and enjoyed the clinic.
In front of me is a picture of a young, fully-haired Kelly Slater dated December 29, 1999. He’s sporting a Gorbachev t-shirt and has his arms around the family that owns Waialua Bakery.
His palms were sweaty, he was shaking from the mass amounts of adrenalin, he was completely dehydrated and he was freaking from the near-death experience and elated from the wave of his life.
“Byron Bay’s Dancing Man,” Tommy Franklin, can be found channeling the sounds amplifying from his head phones – blissfully unconcerned with the judgments of the world.
When Rodrigo Miranda was nine years old, a mugger pressed the barrel of a .38 to Rodrigo’s forehead. Rodrigo suspected what he might want.
Even if voters are going to base their decisions on a process-of-elimination, hot-button issue compatibility test, it should be done the correct way; not through negative ad, hearsay.
Consider this: WaveJet will enable anyone, at any skill level, to get in the lineup and catch any wave without using any energy. Only time will tell if it is surfing’s friend, fad, or foe.
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