Shaun Tomson Surfing Ambassador/World Champion
When I catch one of those bands of energy, stand on top of the wave and look down, I see the world from a unique perspective. I feel connected to the world in a special way.
I felt as if I had been walking along the highway and gotten hammered by a truck. Never to this day have I been struck so hard by a wave.
This is a story of how surfing and tube-riding essentially saved my life. Surfing can teach us powerful lessons if we look beyond the next wave.
Revolution happens in head rolling lurches, and there’s a revolution going on right now in professional surfing.
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