Steven Kotler Author/Surfer
The same neurochemicals released in the brain while doing drugs are released in the brain during adrenaline sport. There’s literally no difference.
Every wave is a momentary connection with something far beyond yourself; surfing is like a heroin injection of union.
Singer-songwriter (and former pro surfer) Jim White has been a huge influence on surf culture, and his latest project could use your help.
“It’s not that I mind other surfers,” said the first surfer. “I mind the attitudes. God makes waves aplenty; people just need to remember that.”
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