I have always wanted to build my own surfboard
Safe to say these guys found their pot of gold.
There were no spectacular barrels or 360-air revos, but plenty of fun was had nonetheless. Plus, we all owe a great deal of respect to these 22 surfers who competed in such crazy conditions.
Now I can appreciate the subtleties of the ocean. Its texture, the luminance in a wave, the colors, and its shapes.