"It's definitely the hardest wave to surf on the North Shore, it has so many different moods."
Jordy Smith should have won Sunset before now. Sunset is a wave for power surfing, and Jordy has that in spades. Yesterday, he proved it–as if we needed more proof.
The swell was short lived but produced a fun day of waves after a three week hiatus.
This was the first solid swell that hit the Canaries after last month's historic storm that turned on La Santa's outer reef.
On the ride back the strongest emotion expressed by the women was excitement; excitement for their opportunity to compete, to train harder, and chase the next purple blob.
I did my best to stray away from the crowds of Blacks and sure enough I scored some shot of empty lineups with double overhead hollow barrels.