It's one thing to drop your bags somewhere and instantly fall in love with a place.
Courtney Conlogue is a serious competitor. No one has ever thought differently, but she was on a different level at Bells.
"With 5-10 guys sitting right on the jetty, all digging for the same set wave, finding a clean one to yourself is Christmas.”
I had been sick the night before and was still feeling ill in the morning, debating whether I should just go home and get back to bed or shoot.
Every morning, I'd wake up between 3 am and 4 am thanks to the jet lag and time zone changes between Mexico and Europe. I'd pop up fresh and ready to go, heat up some water for coffee, have a chat with my grandpa, and head out to check the waves out front.
Drug Aware Margaret River Pro: Main Break was pumping: six-to-eight foot faces, blown clean by an offshore breeze.