I certainly cannot speak for Mr. Eddie Aikau or his ohana, but I do believe he was looking down with a big smile.
Every single composition, its angle and exposure, are not only signs of a unique eye and creativity, but of my love for the ocean.
The five mils were on, there was frost on the boardwalk and you could see your breath. I truly enjoy these mornings.
I didn't know what to expect from Roy but the guy blew my mind, getting barreled nonstop and making my job pretty easy. I never expected a surfer from Holland to charge like this.
Plenty of surfers made their way down that cliff, asking me how the surf was. All I had to do was show them a frame from this set to send their froth through the roof.
Chumash legend says dolphins were originally Chumash who had fallen off a rainbow bridge between Santa Cruz Island and the mainland that was created by the Earth Goddess Hutash.