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The Inertia

Currently, Florida’s Atlantic coast is bracing for impact from Hurricane Dorian as it spins its wheels over the Bahamas. But, as often happens with hurricanes in the Atlantic, the harbinger of high winds and pelting rain was some decent surf to nibble on for many wave-starved Floridians.

Not to make light of the destructive nature of Dorian, but every year hurricanes and high surf cause reporters to flock to beaches along the coast and interview surfers seen as loonies for even paddling out. And at Jacksonville Beach, Florida over the weekend, it was no different.

When a reporter sticks a camera and a microphone in the face of an aviators-clad local surfer with a tribal shoulder tattoo and asks why in God’s name he’d paddle out on a day with “double red flags” his response is gold: “I wouldn’t go out there if I was a novice,” he says.

 
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