The Inertia Senior Editor
Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz. Image: Art Brewer

Dorian “Doc” Paskowitz. Image: Art Brewer


The Inertia

#4. Doc Paskowitz

While he would never agree, Dorian “Doc” Paskowitz can be considered one of the earliest pioneers of the shape of today’s surf culture. He spent nearly 25 years on the road, living in a succession of used campers. It is, quite possibly, the world’s longest surf trip. He and his wife raised nine children in those campers, soaking them in the ocean and their idea of how life should be lived.

He and his family have been referred to as “The First Family of Surfing.” Born in Texas in 1921 to a Jewish family, Doc graduated from Stanford Medical School at the age of 25. After a successful stint as a doctor, he packed his wife, Juliette, into a used camper van and started what would become one of the most interesting surf-centric lives ever. He and Juliette ended up raising nine children in a number of different vehicles, always on the move. His take on education, health, and how humans should spend their time didn’t mesh with society’s standards, and his children were steeped in his ideals – which, for the most part, drew few complaints.

Surfing’s slant on searching for waves can be, in part, attributed to Doc. What became a lifestyle that was slightly molded by the ideals found in such films as The Endless Summer was something that the Paskowitz family was unapologetically living, despite the public’s view of how things ought to be done.

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  • Ben

    Curren (Tom) on, Noll on, Paskowitz off, Gabaldon off if we’re keeping it objective.

  • nextstep99

    Tom Blake, George Greenough, Nat Young, Wayne Lynch

  • Bob Feigel

    The list started out so well. The first three mentioned were spot-on. But then the list became a bit silly in my opinion. Sure, “Doc” is a nice guy and an icon of sorts, but he’s hardly been a major influence on surfing. Same with Nick Galbaldon. Politically correct for sure. But a major influence? Hell … his name was virtually unknown until the past few years.

    The film character, Jeff Spicoli, is not worthy of mention, and certainly not before Gidget.

    The films of Bruce Brown have definitely been a major influence on surfing and Laird Hamilton’s big wave exploits have made him a living legend. But Sean Collins? How many surfers even recognize the name?

    Personally, I think “top ten” lists like this are useless. Particularly if they’re as flawed as this one.

    • mrempty

      Uh, Sean Collins? Surfline? You don’t need to recognize the name to know you don’t have to drive to the beach to check the surf anymore. Although I agree the list sucks, Collins totally deserves to be there.

    • tgzzzz

      Yep. Gidget but not Dewey Weber? This is what happens when folks get to thinking they know something after reading some mags. Dora is only famous for being a dickhead. I was there.

    • surferpl

      Bob, you’re spot on but allow me to nitpick and say Inkwell was at Santa Monica, *south* of Malibu, not north.

  • Scott Bass

    Blake -fin , Greenough- performance, Tom Morey -accessable, Velzy -commercial, Bonzer Brothers – innovation, BING -marketing, NOLL-legend, Simon- innovation, McTavish -design, Brewer – design , Hynson – down rail… left out many and butchered a few but … the list of board builders that have influenced our aquatic expression is long.

  • Michael Harnage

    MR, Lopez, Curren and or Carroll. Either of these men over Jeff Spicoli And “Queen of Makaha”, Rell Sunn. Great list otherwise!

  • piskian

    Jesus.And Moses,for the paddleout skills on Red Sea breks

  • Teresa Anne Moore

    This ‘nana left out Shaun Tomson???

  • Ben

    Oh yeah, Greenough is a serious omission, innovating when Laird was just a pup. Greenough on, Laird off.

  • surferpl

    Influential… How about: L.B., Buttons, Lopez, Butch VanArtsdalen, Noll, and Simmons for crissakes.

  • Joshua Ben Paskowitz

    Don’t forget bringing the first surfboard to Israel, starting the first surf camp, pioneering the sport and sacrificing a Stanford medical degree and the lives of his family on the alter of Surf. Of course that’s overlooking his personal influence on every Surfer in History since duke and including Slater Dora Tubesteak machado Gerry Lopez and Eddie Aikau but hey what do I know? Ask Herbie Fletcher, Joel Tudor, Steve Pezman, George Downing and Eddie Rothman. They all Appreciate the fact that Doc is one of 3 last living Pioneers that have a direct connection to the first generation of haole Surfers
    Ever. Not a Sport, a Religion that is Handed down by Devotion. Of course I’m biased my Dad is my Hero for rushing the Gaza border crossing at gunpoint to bring surfboards to the Palestinians. Hardly an influence. Aloha.

  • Jim Clements

    How is there no Gerry or Bertleman or Tudor? And, what about the Aussies? Doc and Nick are a stretch, good stories both, but influential??? And you lost all credibility with Spicoli and Gidget. While they influenced surfing, as did Sean Collins and Bruce Brown, they weren’t even surfers. Ridiculous

  • Pointy

    No George Greenough and yet you have fictitious characters?
    Please file this story under “we didn’t do our research very well but decided to publish it anyway”

  • ichorousmedia .

    I’m pretty sure Phil Edwards wins out over Miki Dora, but Bruce Brown suffices, barely, in the sense that he spent a lot of time filming Phil and exposing his talent

  • Seabass120

    Sean Collins, Gidget and Spicoli? No Tom Curren – SHAME on you!!

  • mrempty

    Of the ten most influential surfers two of them are fictitious characters… Not one but TWO??? Come on. Art imitates life, not vice versa.

  • Rob Farrow

    Thinking the name Gerry Lopez, Grubby Clark, Joe Quigg, Hobie Alter should have been in there somewhere, considering what they individually brought the sport over the decades. Eddie Aikau is another name that was missed who has had a profound impact on our evolution of big wave surfings legitimacy. I would venture to say if Laird is on the list then Mr. Joel Tudor would have earned a spot for his contributions to surf culture. On the remove for the list side…well I’ll reserve my comments. Fun conversation topic for sure.

  • Dr. Bob

    Dudes, if you are goin’t list non-surfers types who altered the sport how’about photogs like Dan Merkel, or surf artists like Chris Lassen. And you should’ve had at least one real female surfer like Margo Oberg on the list … gawd you guys really dropped it!

    • matt obrien

      Might as well add Nixon too, for opening Trestles to the public.

  • Jamie DeMatoff

    I’m sorry everyone, but Slater should of been number 2 right under the Duke. Period.

  • Sierra C

    Where’s Brock LIttle on this list? You have Laird and Sean Collins, but not Brock Little? Who made this list anyway?

  • John S. Garner Sr.

    What about Greg noll? And a few others I could mention.

  • John S. Garner Sr.

    Anyone remember Dwain surfboards? Early 60’s.

  • matt obrien

    just curious: didn’t Dino Andinio win the rokkie of the year over Kelly? Picking Spicolli over anybody else is an insult to your list. You just lost real creditability on that call. Come on, you couldn’t even name one female surfer other than Gidge?! And pretty sure the John Severson should be somewhere on that list. You know, Surfer Mag? NO Bertleman or Buttons? IF your to take the time to create this list and have us the reader actually read it, take the time to do it correctly. You guys are losing it.Bob Feigel’s post was spot on.

  • Scottie McNichols

    Including ‘Gidget’ and ‘Jeff Spicoli’ is a shameful disgrace to people like Hobie Alter and Shaun Tomson.

  • nonsense

  • Stephen Weir

    WTF!!!! This is a very US based list. Where the hell is Mark Richards?

  • Chiara K Sotis

    i feel like some key figures have been left out. where’s Eddie in that list? Tom Curren? do we really need a reminder of Jeff Spicoli?

  • Carmen Migoya San Miguel

    EDDIE AIKAU, JERRY LOPEZ, MARK FOO, pleaseeeeee!!!

  • Alison Rose Jefferson

    This is very cool that Nick Gabaldon done received the honor of being on The Inertia’s list of influential surfers. We must remember the Santa Monica Bay Street/Inkwell monument is about the commemoration of the heritage of numbers African Americans and other marginalized groups who enjoyed the beach who struggled for their California dreams. Nick Gabaldon is one representative story of all the other invisible African Americans who where out surfing during the 1940s. Connecting the past to the present and the future, his legacy is an empowering story of the pursuit of freedom and self-fulfillment as he and other African Americans challenged racial and class structures during the Jim Crow era (1900s-1965) by confronting the emergent politics of leisure and recreation access when they surfed, and hung out at the oceanfront, a public space that was at the core of California’s formative, mid-twentieth century identity. His story and other African Americans’ story represented by the Inkwell monument begins the infusion into the public memory these events, hopefully empowering people with courage to pursue their California dreams and useful knowledge to be a force for civi engagement, while facilitating individual and community pride.

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