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It's an amazing feeling to be floating around in the ocean as the sun creeps up over the horizon... it's all about that feeling.

It’s an amazing feeling to be floating around in the ocean as the sun creeps up over the horizon… it’s all about that feeling.


The Inertia

The first time I attempted surfing was a sweltering June afternoon. Lake Ontario was gracious enough to spare some modest waves. I had recently purchased my first surfboard. This board must have had quite an interesting life because it was skillfully hand-crafted in Australia, only to end up 8,000 miles away on an online used surf shop in Southern California for next to nothing. It was beat, it had unsightly gouges, dents from the heels of its previous owner and was permanently stained yellow with age, but I fell in love with it. I paid more for shipping than the board itself.

This surfboard’s life got even more interesting when it trekked across the country, banging around in numerous UPS trucks before reaching its final destination in Upstate New York. If that board could talk I’m certain it would say something along the lines of “what the actual hell am I doing here?”

Every time I would tell someone that I wanted to give surfing a try on Lake Ontario I was met with immediate skepticism. “You can’t surf on a lake” was the most common response, but if you have spent time on Lake Ontario you know how laughable that statement is. Of course the skepticism was disheartening, but no one knew Lake Ontario like myself.

I grew up riding its nausea-inducing swells on my Grandfather’s fishing boat. I heard the tales of its unforgiving waves swallowing ships whole and sparing no survivors. I knew Lake Ontario wasn’t really a lake, rather more of a small ocean. I knew it was surfable and no one could convince me otherwise.

A quick Google search led me to find that directly across the lake, on the shores of Toronto, a surf scene was blossoming. Surf shops were opening their doors and scores of people were lining up to take part in the hype. Canadians were surfing beloved “Lake O” and that was really the only motivation I needed.

When I paddled out for the first time on that blistering summer day, what I imagined was going to be an unforgettable session of majestic wave riding was really just a huge embarrassment. I belly-flopped off the board for two and a half hours. This became a regular occurrence for the next few weeks before confessing to myself that the online discussion boards were right- you can’t learn to surf on a 6’1 quad.

I got realistic and purchased a foam longboard. It didn’t have a badass backstory like the quad did. It didn’t shred the shores of Los Angeles before landing on my door step, kissing the cold fresh-water of a Great Lake.

The foam board was bulky, resembling a massive pool toy. I didn’t care much for the foamie, until I caught my first wave with it. At that point the enormous sponge became my favorite thing in the world. Catching my first wave was an extraordinary experience that I imagine will be engrained in my memory for the rest of my life. The angry sky drenched the horizon in a menacing grey that day, accentuating the white of the passing seagulls and the rolling of the impressive white-capped waves. After weeks of discouragingly correcting mistakes, all of my practice came together. With surprising execution I was actually riding a wave. It was a ten second ordeal that oddly changed my life. I’ve had several more of these magnificent experiences now and the thrill has yet to subside.

Learning to surf has taught me more about life than surfing, so here are a few lessons I’ve learned in the rolling waves of my beloved Lake Ontario.

1. It’s okay to be a student.

Like so many others, I often have a flawed notion that I can attempt something and instantly be good at it. This mindframe sets us all up for failure and neglects the most humbling part of the entire process: learning. Before purchasing a surfboard of my own, I heard that the vast majority of people who buy them will realize that surfing is really difficult and give it up in short time. In an age of instant gratification we must learn to value and appreciate the learning process. Like most things, surfing is a never ending learning experience. Even the professionals who make it look effortless are always learning.

Don’t spend your life trying to be “good” at things. Maybe just invest your time in trying to be “better than you were.”

2. Falling (and failing) is required.

The most vital aspect of learning, is failing. In the case of surfing that means physically falling. I know it’s a bizarre concept, but it’s true. While learning to ride waves you will fall, fall, fall and fall some more. Fall again, ride a couple nice waves, fall a few more times and then fall a little more. You will learn something after every fall. Falling off of your surfboard is more than just a graceless and awkward plunge into the water, it’s a learning opportunity. Much like life, mistakes are required to succeed. Finding the lesson in small failures leads to great success.

3. Ask questions. 

Surfers can be some of the most welcoming people you’ll meet. In my experience, the seasoned surfers are nearly always willing to lend a helping hand to the novices – if you seek their help. Ask questions, take advantage of the knowledge that they have and you don’t.

I cannot stress this enough, surrounding yourself with people who more experienced than yourself and learning from them is a sure-fire way to become skilled at anything in life.

4. Make the best with what you have and where you are.

Being a part of this community of Great Lakes surfers has taught me to embrace where I live and make the best of it. When most people think of surfing they think of well-tanned, 20-somethings under a genial blue sky, chasing the picturesque waves of some utopian beach in 75 degree weather. When I think of surfing, I think of guys who may actually be insane, throwing on a thick wetsuit, trudging through the unrelenting elements and diving into ice-ridden water to ride a pitiless wave. We may not live on an island paradise but there is no reason to not make it feel like one. I get it, it’s cold and you work eight hours a day. But luckily there are 16 more hours left in the day and wool socks are a thing. Get out there and make your backyard a vacation destination.

5. Spending time with Mother Nature is really important.

Living a life of tranquility is pretty difficult when our phone screens are illuminated all day. We all wake up to newsfeeds and timelines inundated with negativity and futile nothings. We live our lives in an alternative universe that can be edited, hiding behind our hand-picked profile photos and glossy Instagram filters. I love technology, but there has to be a time when we give our brains a rest from it all. When I’m surfing nothing else matters but the next wave. My phone is left in my Jeep and the time away from it is noticeably rejuvenating. It’s scientifically proven nature is incredibly beneficial to your health. We all need a hobby that carries our minds away from the hectic lifestyle that has become normal to us. Whether you’re catching waves or just taking a leisurely nature walk, set time aside every week to enjoy the great outdoors.

It adds years to your life.

 
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