The perennial classics, from Rincon to Malibu, spring to life at the dawn of every new tirade of oceanic force. Crowds run amok most days, and the raw Pacific power that usually quells the overzealous masses at key spots has been lacking. While the guarantee of a 100-yard wave at a prominent point is tempting, the desire for adventure and exploration occasionally overwhelms all else. California roads guide me past the tumult and turmoil of the wild sea to the quiet places; nuanced reefs and swell-graced beaches up and down this rugged coast.
Power lurks beneath the dazzling aesthetic of these hidden gems. Silver fins cut through the water just as easily as words of excitement upon finding an untouched lineup. Not all shadowy fins belong to dolphins, and good intuition lets you know it. The perils of the deep are not nearly as frightening as those of the shallow; rocky bottoms in the Golden State can be particularly unfriendly. An unfamiliar reef is what you might feel next if you are so inclined to hurl yourself over the ledge when it gets thick. If you make the drop, however, you might be locked in to the wave of your life.
From the deep blues of Big Sur to the greenish-browns of Ventura, the hues of the ocean may change, but the quality of waves do not. From Point Arena to San Diego, finicky spots hold unknown potential when the right mixture of swell, wind, and tide come together. Thousands of reefs, sandbars, and point breaks lie waiting, so on any given swell somewhere in California must be pumping. Surfing is about taking risks, exploring new realms and having fun. If you are willing to brave the unknown, then have hope, because you might yet score the best waves of your life on the left coast of this beautiful country we call home.
Words by Dryden Brown
