I live in an area filled with novelty waves. Our coastline running into Big Sur is filled with hundreds of bays and coves. Upon receiving south swells, each one reacts in a different way. Your day can either lead you searching for hours with no luck, or scoring oil-glass peaks on your log without a soul in sight. That’s the beauty of the Central Coast. Fortunately, I got lucky on a smaller south that came our way last week. There were three days of total bliss. It was nothing but good waves, good friends, and a buttload of smiles going around. As surfers, we’re easily entertained. Surfing allows us to appreciate simplicity at its finest. I dig that we can learn that from the ocean.
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