Tahiti last year: too big to compete, too big for anyone but the clinically insane. Photo: Jason Kenworthy/jrkenworthy.com

Tahiti last year: too big to compete, too big for anyone but the clinically insane. Photo: Jason Kenworthy/jrkenworthy.com


The Inertia

Why are you playing with our emotions?

Last year you gave us huge, ugly, gray, heart-in-the-throat, death-defying waves. It was too big to compete and too big for anyone but the clinically insane. This year we’ve had two days of small, weird, borderline mundane surf – and now, flat. Clear, blue, not a breath of wind, paradise, but flat.

We’re not asking for last year. We do not need death-defying – just heart-pounding. Just something to give those of us watching with bated breath from our office chairs something to cheer for, something to get us excited. Tahiti, this is our plea. There is still time in the waiting period. We have been waiting anxiously for a year now. Please respond urgently.

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