According to a report by the O.C. Register, San Clemente big-wave surfer Greg Long was airlifted to the hospital after suffering a three-wave hold down at Cortes Bank on Friday evening.
According to an update on Billabong XXL’s Facebook acccount, Long was taken to UCSD Medical Center by the US Coast Guard. The Facebook update states:
“He got pounded after taking off deep behind another surfer on a big one, and ultimately suffered a three-wave hold-down, blacking out near the end, but being pulled out by DK Walsh and Frank Quirarte on skis. He was coughing out blood/foam for some time, but DID NOT break any ribs or suffer an impact, just the massive hold-down. He will be telling the tale to all key surf media tomorrow but is just trying to settle down and be thankful for surviving one of the hairiest big wave incidents of all time. And he wanted you to know the waves were REALLY good.”
Billabong XXL stated that Greg had been released from the hospital.
Long was the star of The Inertia’s first documentary, Sine Qua Non: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing with Greg Long, and surfed some of the most impressive waves ever documented at Jaws this fall.
Here’s to wishing Greg a speedy and full recovery.