Surfer//Traveler/Writer
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Grom to grown up. It's inevitable.

Grom to grown up. It’s inevitable. Photos: (L)Sebastian Robinson/(R)Kevin Jansen


The Inertia

You know that guy in the line-up on Tuesday afternoons? The one with the huge smile on his face, sunburned skin, frothing for the next wave? That used to be me. You’ve probably seen him. “Shouldn’t that guy be at work?” you thought. “He’s like, 30.”  Technically yes, but I didn’t have a job and I considered my happiness and health a full time occupation. Surfing can be a selfish sport. As I progressed, I began to realize that it doesn’t matter who you are – there’s more to life than the next wave. Life is work and in order to survive, sometimes you need to sacrifice what you love, snuff-out the inner child and grow up. Depressing? Maybe. But there is a silver lining, and happiness can be reached through balance.

The beginning looks like this: it’s Monday and you turn your back to the ocean (with hesitation, of course) during a healthy south swell and warm offshore winds, reluctantly boarding the train for the congested shadow-lined streets of a concrete jungle. Rather than dodging heads or getting swallowed up by a rogue wave, you’re dodging suits holding lattes shuffling to “important” meetings.  Sitting at your desk, you master the art of mind surfing and jones for the wet smell and touch of salt water on your skin. You peek over your shoulder, ensuring the coast is clear (ahhh coast) as you eye the live Pipeline Masters stream or check your favorite local break. It’s a daily torture.  Your lingo begins to change, business acumen elevates and the “stoke” becomes “quite enjoyable.”  You’re a planner now, mapping out career aspirations, financial goals and 5 year plans. Can you handle it?

Relax, here are the perks:  The first pay check! It’s nice having more money coming in than going out, isn’t it?  And consider this, another few weeks and that trip to Bali will be a reality.  You call your local shaper to discuss dimensions and custom boards, placing an order for that magic stick just in time for Christmas. Suddenly, your level of appreciation for “earned” time off increases.  You value your time in the ocean so much more when you’re limited to two full days of surfing a week.  Instantly, you become a morning person. Dawn patrol is your middle name and it’s a gratifying sensation walking to work with sand between your toes. Thankful for the waves you catch and driven by the money you chase and deals you close; shredding that wave of success.

The circle of corporate life revolves around outperforming the competition.  There is something to be said about achieving goals that are slightly out of reach, constantly chasing paper until you’ve satisfied your personal hunger for success.  Once you get it, it’s great. Trust me, it’s like a glassy little runner that keeps on giving.  Turning down epic Mondays will never be easy, but the key to surviving those days is adaptation and balance.  Surf like a grom and hustle like a boss.

 
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