The idea that the best surfer is always the one having the most fun is beyond cliche. That’s not a cynical take, just an observation that we tend to throw the saying out there so much it’s lost most of its meaning.
There is plenty of value left in the thought that the surfer having the most fun makes everybody else in the lineup better. Nothing gets you ready to catch the ride of your life quite like watching another person surf with absolute joy. At that point, “having the most fun” just becomes contagious. For Meg Roh, it’s clear that the day she caught the surf bug, there was a serious rash of stoke running around. The teenager just up and decided one day she’d surf every day for a week, then a month, then a year, and now here she is over a thousand days later, getting in the water and dancing around no matter what. A lot of those days, she’s catching waves with her step father, Sam Hann, and it’s pretty clear the two feed off of each other’s love for surfing. Meg keeps Sam young, and Sam nurtures and supports her dedication to the daily routine. Here they are in some behind the scenes footage from The Search For Freedom talking about the streak and what it means to be “the best surfer.”
Now go out and find a friend with the same dedication as Meg and see how long you can fight off the urge to get back in the water for a few of your own.
Learn more about The Search For Freedom here. It’s available oniTunes today.
