Big-Wave Surfer
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The Inertia

The first swell on Sunday, May 3rd was scary. I didn’t want to get caught inside at all because it was just a death zone. I got caught once, luckily Coco Nogales saved my life before I blacked out. The waves were big and pumping for two weeks straight. We scored two swells and I’m glad everyone is alive. Puerto is such a hard place to catch waves. You have to pay your dues and be ready to paddle a lot. But what I love most about those two big swells is that all my friends that I used to see on big waves caught some sick ones during these sessions. Hats off to everyone who charged and thanks to Rusty Long for letting me borrow this magic 8’5 Chris Christenson.

 
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