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The Inertia

I surfed from sunrise to sunset on this day. And I got this wave just when everybody got out of the water for lunch. Something told me to stay out, and I’m so glad that I did because I was just about to leave.  The waves were so good. It was unbelievable. The drop on this one felt pretty good, and it set me up perfectly for the end section where it tends to get pretty gurgled-out. I’m so happy I made it because where I was is not the best spot to fall. You can see all of those warbles sucking up the face, which can get a little hairy. It was as such an amazing view looking out of that beauty. I can’t wait to get back out there.

 
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