As great as the idea of riding a “perfect” wave sounds, I have to image once you’ve done it life might start to feel a tad empty. So much of surfing’s joy comes from the unknown. From believing that your next ride is going to be the best one of your life. And even once you’ve found that wave, you’re still going to at least hope each wave thereafter can somehow top it.
The point I’m trying to make is that Kelly’s wave is – in the way we would articulate a story of the perfect wave – a perfect wave. It peels at an obviously crazy pace, but with an even tempo. And then there’s that barrel that just…keeps barreling. Tuck in, find your line, and then…I don’t know? Just keep getting barreled once you’ve found that sweet spot? It’s equal parts cool and “well now how are we going to top that?” And that’s scary.
But alas, Steph Gilmore and Flume (yes, the Australian DJ/producer) just dispelled the idea that even a perfect and predictable wave could ever get boring (as long as you don’t let it get boring). Armed with bodyboards and an entire entourage packed on top of a floatilla, here’s the crew charging Kelly’s wave on some alternative crafts and having a helluva time doing it.