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Tom Dosland XXL Jaws Peahi Wipeout

You can bet that Tom Dosland got a healthy dose of whiplash on this one.


The Inertia

As a certified massage therapist living on the North Shore for the last 16 years, I have had the opportunity to work closely with many professional surfers on the Big Wave World Tour such as Alex Gray, Garrett MacNamara (both currently recovering from shoulder injuries), and many others. My experience has taught me how to deeply understand the impact of stress on the body of a big wave surfer. Here’s a look inside the body and mind of a big wave surfer experiencing whiplash.

The speed of the drop, heavy water detonating behind him as he draws his line and shoulders up to their ears. The torso and legs folded and extended in various directions for stabilization. His feet sense, grip, and respond with nuance to every bump on the face of the wave. As he wipes out, hitting the water at Mach speed and sometimes bouncing off the surface, he has no control of his body’s movement. The elements are rarely in his favor to adjust. As the massive ocean folds into itself, churning the human form beneath the surface, a rag doll submitting to the mercy of the restless salty sea. Under duress, the sympathetic nervous system takes over with fight or flight response: the body’s reaction to stress. About 30 minutes later, after a session with an intense wipeout like this, my phone rings:  I end up treating a case of severe whiplash.

What can happen when one experiences whiplash? Woven deep within the protective joints of the neck there is a delicate information network via the nerves and blood. Its job: to supply vital nutrients and eliminate waste for optimal function. The nerves within the cervical spine branch out, directing movement of the upper body from the head to the diaphragm and outward through the arms to the fingertips. A compression to this area, like the one delivered by whiplash, restricts blood flow. It causes muscles to lock as others weaken, hence disrupting the normal physiological function. In a short time, a compensatory pattern is formed.

As it is hard to suppress the adventurous spirit of a surfer, taking the time necessary to heal might not happen. He or she will aim to ‘heal’ as quickly as possible, and the already weakened areas will develop into a case of repetitive injury. The surfer now faces a long-term challenge to “unlearn” these patterns.

Is it possible to undo patterns like this? The answer is yes: the body has a miraculous ability to heal itself if we consciously invest time in the healing process. Begin with diet, eliminating foods that make our bodies more acidic than alkaline. When our bodies are in an alkaline state, inflammation can be reduced faster and healthy cells can revitalize the damaged tissue. When the injury becomes chronic, the process of healing is incomplete, and scar tissue can cause an array of problems in the future. To make your body more alkaline, eat hippy food. Citrus, pineapple, watermelon, dark leafy greens, and much more. I know this can be hard for some of the carnivorous wave warriors, but I challenge you to get creative!

Next, deal with the muscle. Muscle has memory, and a series of physical therapy sessions coupled with soft tissue massage will restore the tissue function to its original state of mobility and balance. Including strength training in the healing process will allow the body to better support and protect the compromised area. Restorative yoga, in due time, can help to open up the joint facets for blood and oxygen to flow, which helps eliminate dense scar tissue. All of this can be continued into a plan to prevent future injury as well.

Take the time to prep for the next big wave storm chasing adventure, and you will return stronger and wiser.

 
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