Teaming up with a surfer you have never shot before to create a bunch of new images for your portfolio is extremely exciting! Undertaking a mission like this at the start of spring has proven rather challenging. While weather and water are getting more inviting, the waves are at an all-year low. Chasing big barrels at home was nearly impossible. The magical light however, was almost a constant.
Byron Bay’s own Sam Johnson, one of keenest surfers around, and I have been dawn patrolling the shire for the last three months. The amount of failed outings without even entering the water definitely outweighs the number of success stories. So many early mornings, so many times it was “back to bed” for us. Onshore. Too small. Wrong swell direction. Wrong spot… and so on.