Surfer
Community
A DX1 by DHD Surfboards getting some close attention.

A DX1 by DHD Surfboards getting some close attention. Photo: Boardcave.com


The Inertia

What’s new and what’s true?

The best thing about surfboards is the future nostalgia to them. The ability to customize surfboards online in itself shows how far the industry has evolved.

Future nostalgia means that the industry and craft have built, and continue to build, a nostalgia for the way things were. This includes how things were built, designs that still hold true, and the craftsmanship and attention to detail behind them. Even boards that are cut by CNC can’t finish their own shape and glass themselves.

Future means that there’s no end to what can be done. New designs, materials, and constructions are endless. At all times, the two words “future” and “nostalgia” are in play together in surfboard design.

The Knowledge

The experimentation of new designs and materials doesn’t come without some knowledge of the history behind surfboards. The shapers that have had the biggest impact on designs are usually the ones with the most historical knowledge behind our wonderful sport. In fact, they more than likely have a deep understanding of the history of things outside our sport, which have helped lead them to their design breakthroughs.

Take a look at surfboard fins, for example. Tom Blake first introduced a metal skeg, taken from a speed boat, which was around 12 inches long and 4 inches deep. It immediately gave way to more control of his board. Not long after, Bob Simmons, who was influenced by Blake and the writings of naval architecture and hydrodynamics of Lindsay Lord, began experimenting with bottom contours and twin fins. With many variations of single, twin, bonzers, and widow makers, to name a few, we were eventually lead to what has become an industry standard for many shortboards: the thruster, which was introduced by Simon Anderson. However, it took looking into the past, along with looking to outside sources, that lead to the future of surfboards.

A little color and a whole lot of shaping in the Chemistry Surfboards factory.

A little color and a whole lot of shaping in the Chemistry Surfboards factory.

How does change happen?

I see surfboards with the same light as I do sailboats. The functional aspects of each will always play some part in current and future models. Traditional designs will always be used by some, as they have a certain feel to them that you can’t mimic with new designs and technology. They may not be the most high performance craft, but surfing and sailing are just as much about aesthetics and feel as they are about performance. Both have had many advancements, and will continue to do so with the experimentation of new materials and constructions.

There will always be shapers who want to hold onto the nostalgic side of surfboards just as much as there will always be the ones pushing the limits of performance. And there will always be a market for each. More and more shapers these days are blending the two, which, in turn, makes them fantastic, well-rounded craftsmen.

Then there are the brands that focus on high performance only and play a part in pushing the limits of design. They use feedback from elite level surfers to design new models, both for the elite competitor as well as the average surfer. While they definitely play their role in the advancement of surfboards, they are usually too busy to look into new materials and experiment themselves. It’s usually the underdogs that put the hard yards in, and if they are lucky, their experimentation can be adopted by the right brand.

Why is it changing?

Many people lay claim that one of the big leaps in advancing surfboards and materials was the closure of Clark Foam. This left many brands high and dry, which the majority of whom had orders waiting and could no longer source the blanks to shape the boards. Everyone was forced to look into other options, and it probably was a key turning point in epoxy boards. Luckily, there had been people using EPS and epoxy resins before the end of Clark Foam, so the knowledge was there. We just needed the push to get everyone else on board.

There have always been guys who experiment. Unfortunately, the surf world is a hard nut to crack, as many people are afraid to try something new. Then, if “new” works, it comes down to the supply and demand aspect to make these new materials affordable or at least desirable enough for people to pay a premium.
Sustainable Materials

Look at the boards being made with sustainable materials. The technology has been in place for a while now. Entropy Resins is a bio-based epoxy resin that uses tree sap in replacement of petroleum based ingredients in their epoxy resin. They also are making practice of using less energy to produce their resin. Entropy Resins have been available to the public for well over six years now, but it’s only within the last couple of years that people are starting to jump on the program. The same holds true for Marko Foams recycled EPS.

Boards made with these materials perform just as well if not better than your traditional PU/PE construction. So why wouldn’t anyone want to switch? They are more expensive because the demand for the product is still relatively low while the raw materials are high. But in reality, the costs are probably the same when you look at the total lifecycle of your boards. Generally, they will last longer.

Shaper Hayden Cox of Haydenshapes produces Future Flex, a technology shown above on a Shred Sled model.

Shaper Hayden Cox of Haydenshapes produces Future Flex, a technology shown above on a Shred Sled model.

Both companies obviously didn’t start their mission to make a buck off the surf industry (they have other industries they cross over too). They truly just want to change the way we see surfboards. They have put in the hard yards to start changing minds. Thankfully, more and more people and brands are following suit. There are now companies working on fully-biodegradable blanks, including using algae as an alternative for PU blanks. There are even people experimenting with mushrooms (these are used as a surfboard core, although I am sure a lot of designs both good and far out came from mushroom use). Still, none of these will succeed unless the products hold up to or exceed the standards of what is out there today.

The best part?

The beautiful thing is that these alternative materials are being produced, they are holding up, and when you think about combining them with other new materials, the possibilities are endless. Take the old, blend it with the new, and you have the future nostalgia of surfboards.

For more information on boards mentioned above check out the custom surfboard range on Boardcave.com.

 
Newsletter

Only the best. We promise.

Contribute

Join our community of contributors.

Apply