This Really Is My Favorite Time of Year
It’s that time of year when here in Southern California when we are just about as likely to get a NW swell as a SW one.
On a good day we might get both and a new crop of A-Frame peaks is a beautiful thing to behold.
The contests are over. Those globally important questions have been answered. How many teenagers did they fit into the Volkswagen, did the contestant in red get his three turns to the beach before his punt in the closed out shore pound? (Who’s his sponsor? oh, then yes, yes he did get those turns in!)
But all that is over now.
One weekend and everyone within a hundred miles of the coast has come to the beach with ALL their stuff.
The next weekend the crowd has dropped by half and everyone has a chance to spread out a bit.
The ocean can be shy and once the tourist hoards are gone she is much more likely to come out to play.
A hundred north swell spots up and down the coast suddenly wake up from their long summer slumber.
Locals wax up their new big wave boards, ordered last spring and take them out for an inaugural paddle.
The air is a bit cooler, the water is still warm and if you make it to the beach early enough you may be greeted by a bit of stiff offshore breeze.
I love the fall!