I started surfing later in life than most surfers. My “first” came when I was 24 years old. I began on a longboard like everyone else, but by the time I was 25 I was riding a shortboard every time out. I mean, that’s what Patrick Swayze rode in Point Break and I was in my mid-20s and wanted to be cool. I never even thought about riding anything but performance shortboards once I crossed over. Longboards were for old guys that I secretly hated, catching waves I couldn’t even paddle for.
This was the case until I was forced out of the water for about a year. Upon returning to the lineup I found my paddling prowess to be lacking. It was the beginning of summer in SoCal, which means minuscule waves are common. Even on a funboard I was having a hard time stroking into waves with regularity. Surfing is what I do to get away from frustration, not bring it on.
My solution was to seek out a new board. My longest stick was 6’0”, so I hit Craigslist and found myself a mini-longboard. The price was reasonable, even on my paltry budget, so I went to take a look. Upon seeing this amalgam of shortboard and longboard in his garage I knew it had to be mine. It was perhaps the best purchase I’ve made outside of my first surfboard. This one opened my eyes in a big way, showing me that sticking to the same old thing was limiting my experience in the water.
I remember seeing a video interview with Rob Machado where he talked about trying all kinds of odd board designs and fin setups because each one can give you a different feeling. Now I knew what he meant. Even on this new board I discovered the sensation of riding near the nose (I’m still hanging zero), which was quite the revelation for me. The board has a five-fin setup, so it can be ridden from a single all the way up to a quad. Now all I want to do is try new boards and expand the horizons of my surfing.
I never thought I’d be cruising two-foot waves on a mini-longboard, but here I am. A lot of surfers surely mix it up already, but for those who don’t it’s worth experimenting with your craft. It may take you places you never thought you’d go.
