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“Ascending a mountain under one’s own power in order to stand sideways and glide down gives an unexplainable feeling of purpose.” Photo: Arcade Belts


The Inertia

Editor’s note: Back in September of 2016, acclaimed snowboarder and explorer Nick Russell traveled south to Chile to climb mountains, ride, and satiate his wanderlust. The following is an abbreviated part one of a two-part travel journal Nick kept throughout his travels, originally published on Arcade Belts’ blog. Check back soon for part two!

I first fell in love with this country on a virgin visit in the summer of 2015. The addiction and incentive to return to Chile were instantaneous. At first glance, the appeal is obvious. After a long, dry summer that has led like-minded snowy souls to seek out endorphin releases through various forms of rock, water, and dirt.

Through the looking glass, the simple act of snowboarding is most always the primary motive. Ascending a mountain under one’s own power in order to stand sideways and glide down gives an unexplainable feeling of purpose. Yet, however infatuated I may be with the up and down motions, I’ve come to realize that the more I travel, the riding is merely the justifiable excuse to book that flight. It is the unknown that draws us in. The gamble of flying thousands of miles from home simultaneously keeps expectations humble but hopes limitless. It is the unpredictable weather, endless terrain, friendly locals, language lessons, delectable food, dangerously tempting pisco & uncertain itinerary that have driven me back to Chile.

Photo: Arcade Belts

Preparations – September 20th

Rest day and pack for mañana’s excursion. Cerro el Plomo, a nearly 18,000ft beast to the east, is calling. The Incas consider the mountain to be a sacred land, protecting its people living in its foothills. It was used as ancient burial grounds, where the mummy of a nine-year-old child was found near the summit in 1954.

The weather over the next few days is looking promising for a potential summit attempt. Internal thoughts question my physical prowess at high elevation. Curiosity is reason enough to pursue. The plan is to access the Cepo Valley via lifts at Valle Nevado. The river ascends directly to the base of the glacier, where Refugio Federación is located. There, I will make a base camp and prepare for a long day upwards.

Photo: Russell

September 21st- Plomo Basecamp

The day begins at 7,700ft where I hitch a ride to Valle and hop on the chair with my ridiculously large pack. Dropping in behind the Tres Puntas t-bar, I become committed to this solo adventure. Company would have obviously been welcomed and enjoyed, especially for safety reasons, but no one could pull the trigger on such short notice. I have emergency protocols in place with friends in town, they shall see me return by nightfall on Friday.

The approach traverses high along the north side of the valley to maintain elevation. I pass by what were once hidden cirques of mystery and add them to my future hit list. Stopping for breaks to alleviate my shoulders, I consciously slow my breath to take in the sounds. Rockfall, birds, the trickling river beneath the snow. I am in no rush.

Refugio. Photo: Russell

6 p.m. arrival to the Refugio, it looks like some sort of old orange submarine. I spend the evening boiling water for dinner and binge drinking tea. Prior beta indicated that the snow up here is less than ideal for drinking, as one may taste a sort of sulfury seasoning to their water. I can now attest to that. Looking out towards the peaks to the south, I am at peace sitting in this valued shelter. A blazing red smears the horizon line.

Photo: Russell

September 22nd- The mountain grants passage

Perhaps the absence of wind seemed surreal, I did not sleep much last night. I wake to a sunrise, equally- if not more- magnificent than yestereve’s performance. I take my time getting going, as the southerly face I intend to ride holds light until 7 p.m. Drinking as much lemon tea as possible, the sunlight hits basecamp and with it, brings a wave of motivation and encouragement. Water bottles full and snacks loaded into every possible pocket, I set forth at 9 a.m. from 13,600ft.

Photo: Arcade Belts

Upon reaching the first bench above camp, the foot of the immense snowfield stares one in the face. I opt for what is sure to be a summer trail, right of the steep icy slope, alongside the ridgeline that consists of loose rocks. Refugio Augustini is found around 15,000ft, with direct lateral views to a steep bright blue ice field.

It became a slight science experiment of balancing strength with endurance. Building on previous skills learned in the mountains, nearly every trick was implemented. Hydration, breathing techniques, controlling body temperature, proper snack intake, crampon foot placement…

Photo: Russell

Five hours pass and the summit flags indicate I have arrived to 5,400 meters, just shy of 18,000ft. This new view to the North reveals a continuous paradise of the mountain range I love more each day. I see Argentina. I see the capital in a haze of pollution. I see the now seemingly tiny valley that I walked up yesterday. It feels as if weeks have passed since I’ve been up here. I suppose that is the power the mountains hold- A vortex which allows these memories to live forever.

 
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