The following piece is an excerpt from the book Making Mavericks, soon to be a major motion picture by the name of Chasing Mavericks.
I had been coaching Jay Moriarity for four years when his whole world changed on a fifty-foot monster of a wave that almost killed him. Instead, it made him famous.
At just sixteen, he was by far the youngest surfer to take on Mavericks, a reef break half a mile off the California coast at Half Moon Bay that at the time was recognized as having some of the largest waves anywhere in the world. Some of the most legit surfers in the game had even conceded that when Mavs was on, it was more powerful than the legendary waves at Waimea on the North Shore of Oahu—and that had been considered the all-time mecca of big wave surfing since the late 1950s. So for a kid Jay’s age to surf Mavericks was unheard of.