Surfers know that there is more to surfing than just the riding a surfboard in the water. It’s hard to put those feelings into words, but we know that vibe of being in the water, trying to sync yourself with the energy of the waves.
Just as there is more to surfing than meets the eye, I try to do the same with my photos. All the action shots of surfers in barrels or pulling big airs are all really cool, but I don’t feel they really convey what surfing really is. They show people what surfing looks like at the surface. I try to capture images that make people stop and actually look at the photo in depth, take in all the little details, and actually FEEL what surfing is like.