Tetsuhiko Endo The Inertia Surf Editor
Pristine lineups are certainly being “discovered” by more people and crowded out, but this is just as much a function of extreme demographic pressures in well-known surfing areas as it is any effect of spots being revealed in the media through photos or the odd contest.
Get yours, f*ck the haters, and let the devil take the hindmost–this is Hobbes’ view of humanity. Coincidentally, there is probably no better philosophical description of the modern, crowded surfing lineup.
We are reaching a critical moment in extreme sports in which the meaning of life, and the meaning of sport itself is cannibalized by the search for the torrid spectacle of tempting death.
Laird once said he trains to be prepared for the earth. Think about that. Who could complain then, if Hamilton, Greg Long, or a climber like the great Rienhold Messner want to use performance enhancing drugs to supplement their training regimes?
Predicting the winner of a surf comp before it starts is like trying to judge a roulette wheel before it spins.
I witnessed indelible proof that one of the great myths of modern surfing – the supposed performance gap between male and female surfers – is false; there is no gap, perhaps never was.
Trestles is my favorite event, simply because the wave on offer is so damn buttery. Before I get to my pick, I’m going to count a few guys out.
Billabong is unlikely to fail. It has enough name recognition that it would be almost impossible for it to disappear completely, but it can fall into the purgatory of the outlet mall.
There are few things in this world that combine the terrible with the sublime quite like a well-executed bullfight. This is why Teahupo’o, when it really works, matters.
“He surfs like a little giraffe falling from the womb,” says Ozzie Wright of Craig Anderson – as apt a description as was ever spoken.
- Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell
- Portfolio: Andy Bowlin
- (HEADSPACE): Sal Masekela
- Eddie Aikau: The Hawaiian Son
- #loosebehavior 2 Art Show Premieres in Oceanside, California
- Eddie Aikau Opening Ceremony: Portraits of Big Wave Warriors
- Sine Qua Non Premieres on the North Shore with Greg Long
- Eh Haole, Read This Before Visiting Hawaii
- GoPro Barrels at the Lighthouse, North Carolina
- Snowy Faroe Islands Surfing: Atlantic Diversions