“You’re free-falling 30 feet, you’ve the force of the ocean coming down on top of your head, then you go deep, deep… get rag-dolled underwater just waiting to be able to see some light and know which way the surface is — and you’re going, ‘I hope I have enough air to survive this.'” – Gary Linden
Any big wave surfer worth his or her salt completely understands and fully appreciates that their surfboards are their survival vehicles. But when this material world of theirs collides with the ferocious open sea as it thrashes about, those aforementioned materials become potential hazards, especially when snapped into smaller (yet still quite large) shards of fiberglass. Therefore, the likes of legend Gary Linden and his protege Nic Lamb spend their time not-chasing-waves chasing innovative ways — such as Kevlar – to stave off the nightmares that are such intrinsic parts of their dreams…
…so when the beasts rear their enormous heads out on the horizon, they’re calm, collected, and sitting pretty.
