Sine Qua Non: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing provides an intimate portrait of the mentality, risks, and lifestyle associated with pursuing monstrous waves around the planet through the eyes of the world’s most decorated big wave surfer, Greg Long. The film’s title, Sine Qua Non, is a Latin phrase, which, roughly translated, means, “Without which, [there is] nothing.” Greg Long presents the viewer with a first-hand account of the life-threatening pursuit of big waves as well a look at the horrific wipeouts involved, including one that nearly ended his life. Going deeper, Long admits his pursuit could be viewed as selfish, especially when surrounded by a very close-knit family that is concerned first and foremost about his safety.
Special thanks: to the Long Family for their unthinkable generosity and openness, as well as Jason Murray, Todd Glaser, Bill Sharp and the Billabong XXL Global Big Wave Awards, Gary Linden, Al Mackinnon, Kirk Presley, Curt Myers and Powerlines, and Chris Dixon, Astra Heights, and Good Morning Orbit for the amazing imagery, video, and music footage used in this film. As well as to Gallo, Matt Johnston, and Director Richard Yelland, who also directed 12 Miles North, for the passion, long hours, and even longer conversations. And thanks to Chasing Mavericks for supporting this film.