One of surfing’s many beauties is we can use it to draw parallels with other passions. The happiest, most passionate surfers are sometimes the ones who can fall in love with something that doesn’t involve riding on moving water. And odds are, you surf because it makes you feel like a better person. It could be the escape that allows you to function on land or your profound engagement with nature that makes you feel super human, or you learn something through the practice of riding waves that offers insight to the rest of life.
So whether you’ve ever stepped in a ring or not, you can probably take a look at that day to day of riding waves and think of several ways it makes you a better _____ (fill in the blank).
AGAINST THE GRAIN ( Ep. II Encounter ) from Jason Yeoman on Vimeo.
