I started surfing as a six year old, growing up at the beach in California the 60’s. The shortboard hadn’t been invented yet. My big brother, Chuck, would help me drag my board across the hot sandy beach all the way to the water’s edge. Then “you’re on your own kid.” Paddling through the cool salty water, I knew I was home.
I grew up on a healthy dose of watching the older guys at the pier doing burnouts in their hot rods, hanging ten, riding their BSAs and Triumphs, drop knee cutbacks and shooting the pier.
I’d wait at the mailbox at the end of each month for the newest issue of SURFER to come, diving into it at the curb, dreaming of surfing far corners of the world. That was my childhood – LogDaze. Becoming a photographer SURFER myself in the later 1970’s I sorta forgot those longboard days of summer. And then one day in 1993 I was approached by the new publisher of LongBoard Magazine. He ask me If I wanted to document the “longboard resurgence” by traveling the world with the best of the day to search out the best waves on the planet. “Hmmm, let me think about it….” And for the next ten years I did just that. When that publication fell disappeared in the early 2000’s I circled back to shortboards, but recently I’ve rediscovered my stoke for shooting and riding classic heavy single fin’s here in Hawaii. I hope you enjoy the ride.
