Some of the most interesting surfers aren’t strictly surfers. In fact, a person that identifies only as a surfer–which many surfers are prone to doing–is usually a pretty boring. It’s the people who spend their lives doing things other than surfing, but who also surf, that are the best ones to talk to.
Jacques Seriau is one of those people. He surfs. But he’s a teacher, a farmer, a shaper, and a husband, among many other things. Here’s a look into the life of a surfer you’ve never heard of.
See the full story on Terasu.co
