Keala Kennelly, Teahupoo. Yup, that happened. Photo: Instagram@Timmckenna
There aren’t a lot of books about women who surf. There are, however, a lot of women with interesting stories who surf. Ben Marcus–a man whose work you’ve read if you’ve read more than five things about surfing–is writing a book fittingly called Women Who Surf. But it needs a little help.
First, let’s talk about Ben Marcus a little bit, because his story is just as interesting as the ones he writes. Back in the late ’80s, he was hired on at Surfer as an assistant editor. Over the next ten years, Marcus wrote an abundance of articles for the magazine before punching Rick Irons in the face and getting himself banned from the offices. “That had less to do with Rick Irons and more to do with someone who grew up in Santa Cruz in the ’70s being stuck in Orange County for 10 years,” Ben said about the incident. “I came in under the Pezman/Holmes/Divine/Warshaw/Girard regime, and that was the magazine I wanted to work for. After 10 years, that had all changed, the world had changed, the Internet was rising and I saw the writing on the wall. I did what I set out to do when I arrived there in 1989 with one finger in my ear – put NorCal and Santa Cruz on the world surfing map (see: Cold Sweat) – I wanted out, and that was a truly graceless and undignified way to get out. Although I kind of bonded with Greg Noll over that, because apparently he had punched out Ricky Irons’ dad way back when. Maybe that is why Greg Noll gave me his cat, Ike, to take to Alaska. Whatever.”
Since then, he’s written a handful of books about surfing and bounced all around the world. This next one, though, is going to be a good one. According to the Indiegogo campaign:
“Women Who Surf is a book profiling 20 women surfers of all ages, experience and styles: Contemporary heroes like Bethany Hamilton, Maya Gabeira and Keala Kennelly, but also 79-year-old “surfagenarian” Janet Macpherson, pro pioneer Rochelle Ballard and Paige Alms, Mercedes Maidana and Wrenna Delgado, who are pushing the limits of giant surf. The book features photography by Griggi, Aeder, Pompermayer, Divine, Russi, Bilderback and Pepin Silva.”
So here’s why the book needs a little help. “There is a tsunami of great surf photography of women out there – especially after the El Nino winter of 2015/2016 went loco. But book publishing is tough these days and photo budgets are scanty,” reads the campaign. “The Indiegogo hopes to boost that photo budget and pay a good price for the best stuff.”
Read the entire rundown below, and if you’re into it (which you should be) donate to a piece of surf history HERE:
Ben Marcus has written profiles on these surfers: 79-year-old “surfagenarian” Janet Macpherson, yoga black belt Alex Westmore, charging pro pioneer Rochelle Ballard, Aussie sensation Sally Fitzgibbons, beginner Rachel Pettit, New Jersey to North Shore charger Wrenna Delgado, the miraculous Bethany Hamilton, ripper Alana Blanchard, death-defying Maya Gabeira, super gnar Keala Kennelly, Maui waterwoman Andrea Moller, soul stylist Leah Dawson, French phenom Pauline Ado, North Shore activist Karen Gallagher, environmental warrior Nancy Hastings, charger and concussion-sufferer Mercedes Maidana, Mullachmore maiden Easkey Britton, Mavericks pioneer Sarah Gerhardt, adventuress Alison Teal, Nor Cal Valkyrie Bianca Valenti, Pe’ahi dominatrix Paige Alms and at the end, a love story featuring Florencia Gomez Gerbi and ISA President Fernando Aguerre.
Speaking of Pauline Ado, check out her video Pauline a la Plage ’01.
Fooled ya! Sexism in women’s surfing is one of the issues in this book.
Still hoping to get Carissa Moore and Steph Gilmore into the book, but they’re both busy getting hitched and taking names.
That’s the list now, although the publisher will have their say on who should stay and who should go now.
All of these women have great stories. They have all gotten their butts kicked and suffered a variety of physical, emotional and spiritual traumas: Losing an arm to a shark, almost losing a face to Teahupoo, almost drowning at Nazare, being homeschooled in New Jersey, broken heads, broken Jet Skis, broken boards, broken homes, broken hearts.
Sexism, towism, broism.
Or in the case of Brazilian charger Maya Gabeira: Being raised by a brave, radical leftist father who kidnapped the American ambassador, went to jail, inspired a movie (Four Days in September) and wore a green thong bikini on the beach at Ipanema that even shocked Rio.
Read about Maya’s dear old dad and you will understand why Maya is so brave from Chopes to Nazare. It’s a great story.
Women Who Surf offers a tidal wave of drama, but all of these women have persevered, drawing their strength from the ocean – and giving it back with style and courage from Malibu to Mavericks to Maui.
The stories are written, but the photo budget needs pumping up. Simple as that. There is a lot of great photography out there from the likes of Lucia Griggi, Erik Aeder, Fred Pompermayer, Elizabeth Pepin-Silva, Jim Russi, John Bilderback, Jeff Divine, Gordinho, GoPro Selfie and a lot of talented pro and hobby photographers.
It would be nice to pay full price for their energized photos.
Women Who Surf is going to be an energized book that could be the first in a series.
A lot of women are going to feel left out, and we will let them in the sequel(s).
Mahalo for your kokua.
