If you surf and you don’t have a longboard, you’re missing out on a lot of surfing. The shortboard only mentality is a strange one–one would think that any opportunity to surf more would be welcomed, but that’s not exactly the case with the grumpy guy frantically trying to paddle into a knee high runner on a 5’11. Here, TK Kim makes a very convincing case that everyone should make themselves comfortable on a log.
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