It’s cliché by now, the notion of Hawaii being both the birthplace of surfing and (after its proliferation across the world) a place where the spirit of Aloha pervades. Banal as it may be in a literary sense, and perhaps exaggerated given the high rises and traffic endemic in Honolulu, it’s not any less true today than it ever has been. Surfing in Hawaii is something special. And as Kahana Kalama identifies here, it’s a confluence of factors – the sheer beauty of the place, its history, the warm water, all of it.
