Ireland is not a place for the surfer who lusts after warm water and glassy waves. It is, however, a perfect place for the surfer who lusts after large, scary, wind-torn waves. At Mullaghmore, most notably, there are a few dedicated locals who watch reports breathlessly, waiting for the right conditions that will turn that beautiful chunk of coastline into something a little more menacing.
The place does, however, have nearly everything you could want. Beach breaks, neck breaking slabs, firing points, and tow-waves that most regular folks would run screaming from. When Mully really gets its wind, a very select few who know exactly how to surf it can score some of the biggest, longest tubes anywhere on earth, but it’s not an easy thing. As is often the case with big wave surfing, finding the right one can be a tricky prospect. Quite often, a wave that looks to be shaping up to be a wave of a lifetime will quickly turn into a wave that will take your head off.
The wave comes from deep water, hits an outside reef, shows its form, then rams into a slab of rock. Most of the time, on those bigger days, there is no exit except the end of the tube. It’s a do or die kind of wave, and it takes a very special kind of surfer to surf it. Need proof? Hit play.
RISKY RIPPLES – Ep 3 from Matthew Bromley on Vimeo.
