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The Inertia

If you have ever surfed at Malibu, you know that it can sometimes feel as though every surfer on earth is there with you. As someone once said, “if you’re not in front of someone at the ‘Bu,’ someone’s in front of you.” Burning at First Point is a common occurrence — so common that it’s not even that big of a deal. You either love it or you hate it. Depending on your mindset, it’s party waves with strangers or furious, seething anger.

But there are a few souls out there who have the place wired. After the dawn patrol session has eased and all those before-work surfers have toweled off and headed to the office, the crowd dissipates. Karina Rozunko and Lola Mignot glide through those perfect runners with a calm kind of ease that only comes with experience at one of the world’s most crowded waves. Late morning at the ‘Bu’ is the best kind of morning.

 
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