Photo: Jamie O’Brien // YouTube
Pipeline is famous for being a scary wave. For every highlight reel-worthy ride, there’s a very real danger lurking below. Even on the days where Pipeline regulars make it out unscathed, sometimes the reef takes its tax in the form of a few boards.
That’s what happened to Jamie O’Brien in his latest video. On a pumping eight-foot day, JOB paddled out to do battle at his home break, only to “say hello to the reef’” not once, but twice.
“Surf session aftermath: First wave broke my favorite Tokoro,” summed up O’Brien afterwards. “Super bummed on this one. This brought down the psych meter for me today. Not a way I wanted to start the session. Then I got psyched back up. I was like, ‘Don’t let it bother me. I gotta get right back out there.’ And I jumped over the falls and broke this one, too. Bummer. Beautiful board. Felt good, but rest in peace, board.”
As a consolation, JOB decided to go on a mission at Pipe that had a little more levity to it. He closes out the edit with one of his favorite novelty rides: riding backwash on a foamboard – straight back into that lineup.
