Photo: ASP/ Richard Hallman
Friday night, the Billabong XXL Awards took center stage at the City National Grove of Anaheim. The event saw the world’s elite big wave riders come together to celebrate another year of massive waves, outstanding performances, and epic wipeouts. The Grove’s big screens showcased the best footage of the year from Nazare to Beharra, from Jaws to Teahupoo, and the audience hooted and hollered for their favorite big wave mad (wo)men. Koa Rothman, Grant “Twiggy” Baker, Mark Healey, Keala Kennelly, and Gautier Garanx walked away with big checks, but the night’s top honors went to San Clemente native Greg Long who took out the Ride of the Year.
We caught up with a few of our favorite characters as they walked the red carpet. We asked a simple question: what was their favorite “oh shit” moment of the year, whether from fear, fun, or comedy? The responses we got are almost as classic as the individuals themselves. Take a look.
Photo: ASP/ Richard Hallman
Greg Long: I had so many “oh shit” moments this year. I’m still finding my way back into the big wave world after my accident in December about a year and a half ago. There were so many days where I would paddle out and just feel like “what the hell am I doing out here, oh shit.” But, I’m cool with it. I guess it’s just a matter of embracing it and overcoming those fear. It’s all part of that perpetual growth which is why I actually love big waves.”
Photo: Shannon Quirk | The Surf Channel
Alex Gray: When I drank the tap water in Mexico during a big swell.
Courtney Conlogue. Photo: Megan Villa
Courtney Conlogue: I was having a really magical moment right before this happened [injured ankle]. I went out surfing with Simon Anderson, the guy who invented the thruster, and the waves were 6-8 foot absolutely perfect and offshore. There were five other people out, but I had a peak to myself. It was just me and the ocean; I was just so in the moment, you know when things just happen in flow and it’s all very seamless… you’re just with nature and everything happens the way you want it to. You don’t force it.
Anastasia Ashley: You know, I was just surfing about 8 hours ago in Cabo. I was down there helping out with some things for the event, the Los Cabos Pro, and practicing a little bit. To be surfing pretty great waves this morning, and to be here now [at the XXL Awards]… It’s definitely been a memorable day.
