Meet Frank. Photo: Santiago Videla
In Hawaii, The Big Island, where the surf is rough as a shallow reef break, there is a man who knows the island and its secrets. Please let me introduce Frank Carpenter – a local surfer and owner of Kona Boys, one of the most mythical surf shops on Hawaii’s Big Island. So, after a couple of email exchanges and in the backyard of his surfshop, we are sitting on a nice table under a tree talking about boards, shapers, secret spots and much more.
How was your first contact with surf?
I was born in Germany and raised in Idaho. At seven years old, I came to the Big Island and I got my first impressions about surfing. That was the moment when the surf started to “bug me.” When I finished college, I moved to the Bay Area and, after I decided that this is what I wanted to do, I moved to Santa Cruz.
When did you start to surf actively?
I started at 24. Older than others.
Not really.
The thing is I always envy the guys that start surfing at 11-12 years old naturally. When they reach 24 years old, they have logged a lot of hours in the water.
Yes, that makes a diference. Once you moved here to the Big Island, how did you start at Kona?
This shop existed before I came in. I came on a surf trip with a bunch of friends, it was amazing and I had a sort of epiphany. “This is the way I want to live.” So I called this shop before I left and I told them, “I want to work with you guys,” and they told me, “You’ll work for a week for free and see how it goes.”
The second day, nobody showed up, so I opened the store and at the end of the day. The owner appeared and he was really angry because I didnt tell him, but I showed him a big load of cash. He smiled and said, “This gonna work out.”
Show me the money!
Sort of. I started with surf lessons, kayak tours, those kinds of things. I had a friend in mind. I called him and said, “There is a shop with a lot of potential here, and you should come.” We did an arrangement with the original owner and here we are.
Amazing.
Yeah, it blows my mind. It’s a story of right place, right time.
Seems that you accomplished the dream of many that want to change how they live. You took the risk and you made it work.
What about the surfing on the big island?
It is kind of special. When people think of Hawaii, Oahu, Kauai or Maui come to mind so it’s really nice that they don’t think about Big Island. The surf is a lot less accessible here. It’s a lot less consistent here because of the island’s position. The northwest swells don’t work here, so you need special conditions for every spot. You have to hike or drive to reach the spots. You have got to put in effort. But!
But?
The other side is that you will be with not many people in the water. You’ll find paradise. It’s a sense of adventure. The Big Island is a really friendly place to surf. The guys in the lineup always will share the wave until you move here and become a local.
Go to the end of the line, man!
Exactly. To surf here demands sacrifice. There is no beach break. It is all shallow reefbreak, and you have to pay attention to the conditions. But once you’ve got it, if you surf well here, you will surf well anywhere.
Why is it so hard to find classic fiberglass boards on the island? I’ve found a lot of “pop outs” or epoxy boards.
A lot of reasons. First, there are a lot fewer boards here than on any other island. Second, 60% of the boards that I rent will return with dents/dings because they hit the reef. Third, we don’t have the big board industry’s presence as does the north shore. Here it is much smaller, which makes for fewer boards, as I said. As a rule here in the shop, we only have boards that we want to use for ourselves. We support local shapers, and we have to keep the posibilities open, so we have epoxy boards too.
Since this is not the “big surf island” how do you see the ASP, competitions and big names?
I’m a fan of all different kinds of surf. I really enjoy watching and I love the webcast. We installed a big TV here and my friends come to see the ASP events. To that end, I am a big fan. On the other side, it has a big impact in those places – crowded spots, crowded beaches. So I’m glad that we don’t have any of those contests here, but we support the kids, we do little contests. For example, Shane Dorian is in charge of little contests for the kids, but to enter they have to have good grades in school. It’s a great motivator.
Describe your quiver and favorite shape to ride.
Mostly I ride a 5’7″ or 5’9″. Something pretty short. When we have consistent swell, I used to ride something with more volume like a 6’3″. I have a really nice longboard for the summer and a couple of fishes. Usually, I take a lot of boards to the beach to share with people.
Five surfers that you love to watch.
Kelly Slater, of course. Shane Dorian. John John Florence is fun to watch. Torrey Meister is radical and innovative. And Rob Machado.
How is a normal day for you?
There is not a normal day for me since my second child has arrived (laughs)! But usually I come here pretty early, open the shop and arrange the tours. During the day, I go out for a two hour session and back to the shop.
Plans for the next year?
The shop is growing, we are starting an organic clothing brand and it’s chemical free. We are proud of that. Travel is a huge part of my life. I try to do one international trip a year. The last one was to Ecuador.
Montañita?
Yeah, Montañita. People there were amazing and the place is awesome. Besides that, I try to keep the same energy and momentum here, integrating the community, supporting the local shops, etc.
Last question: Why do you surf?
(long pause) I do not really know why. It’s one of those things that makes me feel part of everything. It’s very individual and connecting. You stop thinking in the water, and it’s magic. You start to connect with the rhythm of the sea. There is a lot of camaraderie, and you can not get away from that feeling. It’s a cliché but your worst day surfing is better than any day not surfing. When I start to get grumpy or in a bad mood, my wife says, “Go Surf, Frank!”
You can follow Frank’s surf trips on Twitter.
