A lot can happen when you’re blindly searching for waves on scattered islands across an equatorial climate with pretty consistent perfect waves. Your responsibilities fly right out of your brain, and your eyeballs look at nothing else but the coastline as they search for something surfable. It’s like you are driving full throttle with a perfect A-frame wave plastered across your windshield. Heck, maybe that’s what happened when the car flipped over into a rice paddy… who knows. Anyhow, in the end, if anyone who looks as much as we did for waves ends up surfing quite a bit. A few reef scratches, some broken boards, and a lot of good stories later, we all ended up going home as happy boys.
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