You can’t. She surfs really, really well — and likely much better than you. She is absolutely gorgeous. And she (definitely, undoubtedly) outdoes the vast majority of us when it comes to sheer willpower in overcoming physical setbacks. Her optimism is intoxicating. Like a sunset on the North Shore of Oahu. The way she sees is: “You’re paying for all the fun you had.”
80-foot Nazare left her with a bag of broken bones for a body. But two years, three major surgeries, and countless hours rehabbing later, she’s back. And we’re damn glad for that.
