Life is exhausting. Between the extensive list of responsibilities that burdened us, to juggling family, friends, and a healthy surf life, we often find ourselves forcefully sacrificing one for another. And surf is usually the first to be subordinated. The truth is, finding that balance is an often arduous endeavor. Perhaps it’s unattainable. But if there’s one guy who navigates this dilemma quite magnificently, it’s Australia’s Justen Allport. He’s a firefighter and a humble family man, but he spends his free time surfing Sydney’s most notorious death-slab: Cape Fear. If you’re an adult who’s trying to navigate this thing we call life, Justen’s message may just give you an encouraging slap on the butt.
