If you are a surfer in Southern California, your shoulders are tired right now. Your back is sore and water is pouring from your nose at inopportune times. You may or may not have broken a step-up, and damn it, you are happier than you’ve been in a long time. That’s because the run of swell banging into Southern California has been… well, GOOD. Not just big, but GOOD.
It’s the first big winter swell of 2019, and places that either never work or are generally regarded as good places to learn turned the volume way up. Kolohe Andino, Yadin Nicol, Griffin Colapinto, Crosby Colapinto, Ian Gottron, Colton Overin, Kolton Sullivan, Johnny Webber, Geoff Brack, Colt Ward, and a few others found themselves inside some very rare Golden State barrels. Everyone scored. Hopefully, you did too.