As a subculture, we surfers spend so much time three knuckles deep in each others’ asses it’s ridiculous. Smug and self-satisfied, always looking for one more reason to delude ourselves into thinking we’re somehow special and unique. Any reason to avoid introspection is a good one. We just close our eyes and chase the next fleeting adrenaline rush. I’m tired of it. Tired of the lies, the myths, the misconceptions. So here’s a little truth.
1. The best surfer isn’t the one having the most fun
What a great marketing slogan. It’s right up there with, “Only a surfer knows the feeling,” and “Life’s better in boardshorts.” But don’t try and tell me that the kid stink bugging out on the shoulder is the best surfer in the water. He isn’t. The guy sitting deep, driving hard off the bottom before murdering the lip is better. He rips. Pretending surfing is all about fun is just a beautiful lie you tell yourself so you don’t feel bad every time someone paddles deeper than you and then rips the best wave of a set all the way to the beach.