or running home ?
I am grateful
to get to work around with the tides.
I love waking up in the morning
on this flatter side of the coast,
and my ears prick up when the swell starts to pick up
outside my window.
You pull out onto the main road and see a few other cars with their boards on..
and feel a smile of solidarity..
This is a good sign.
Wondering as I go about my day..
about which beach to hedge my bets on,
through foggy hills and gravel tracks..
with just enough time to hit one break before the winter sun sets.
The prospect of getting into the water…
the whole day feels juicier.
The pull draws you, your brain has no say.
Messy is fine, there’s always something fun in it.
The synchronous flow of your insides matching the sea… a relief.