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The Inertia

“When your time’s up, your time’s up I guess, and you’ll be judged by the impression you made on those around you.”

The first time I met Ace Buchan was in Bali in 2009. We were standing on a dirt road near Canggu, and he offered me a ride to the beach from the Hurley house nearby. I hopped on the back of his scooter with my surfboard and debated whether I should put my free hand on his shoulders or just leave it at my side. I decided on shoulder.

As the author of a children’s book, the son of a schoolteacher, and an all-around thoughtful individual, Ace has always struck me as an interesting character in professional surfing. He operates with a level of respect and common courtesy I recognize in the most successful folks I encounter. Ace is thoughtful about the words he chooses when he speaks. They’re purposeful.

In September, we sat down in the burning sun behind the Hurley Pro scaffolding and did a little interview that sheds insight into who Ace is. We talked about all sorts of stuff: How death might be eternal blackness. Love is mutual respect. And happiness is defying classification. Interesting thoughts from Mr. Buchan.

Without further ado, take a ride with Ace.

 
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