There was once a time before cell phone apps showed HD surf cams in real time, before slow cell connections could pull up forecast websites and even a time before forecast websites existed. Finding good waves took knowledge, skill and patience. Maybe a phone call or two to friends keeping an eye on different breaks.
It’s pretty crazy out there these days. All the heros are making selfies, absorbed in how many likes their session will receive on social media. And that’s cool, but what about those precious moments out in the water? The ephemeral bliss of slides, trim, speed, of paddling back into the lineup and smiling at your buddies. A shaka from another ripper in the lineup is worth far more than some virtual likes.
Good surfers are tuned into the ocean. They know the direction of the swell and how the wave is changing as the tide rises or falls. They know how many waves are in the sets and whether the swell is building or fading. And they know this not from an online check from the car before suiting up, but by spending a few minutes watching the surf.
It’s worth it to be tuned in. We surf better and appreciate the ocean more. We’re also safer around the other surfers in the lineup. All it takes is a few minutes before every session to stop, breathe and study the waves.
Follow Brent’s adventure photography at Blog.BrentDimagery.com, on Instagram@brentdurand and Twitter@brentdimagery.
